Bespoke active serum manufacturing
British VitaTech develops and manufactures custom active serums and private label serum ranges in Leicester for brands worldwide, from formulation to finished product, and the brand owns the formula.
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Private label serum development, from vitamin C to retinal
Vitamin C, niacinamide, retinoid, exfoliating and hydrating serums are developed and made bespoke in Leicester, where we work as a private label serum manufacturer for premium wellness brands, each built as a formula your brand owns, with stability data and claims for the UK, the EU and the US. Our accredited partner laboratories assay the label-claimed active in every batch, and every serum comes with its specification, INCI ingredient list, stability data, safety report and a certificate of analysis for every batch.
- Vitamin C serums. L-ascorbic acid in low-pH water-based or anhydrous serums, and derivative serums with sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.
- Niacinamide serums. Niacinamide with zinc PCA, panthenol or hyaluronic acid, for tone, shine and barrier comfort.
- Retinoid serums. Retinol, retinyl esters and retinal in anhydrous, encapsulated or emulsion bases, and bakuchiol as a non-retinoid alternative.
- Exfoliating and peeling serums. Glycolic, lactic and mandelic acids (AHAs), salicylic acid (BHA), and gluconolactone or lactobionic acid (PHAs), at strengths built for home use.
- Hydrating serums. Multi-weight hyaluronic acid and polyglutamic acid, with glycerin and panthenol.
- Peptide, PDRN and barrier serums. Covered on our pages on peptide skincare, PDRN skincare and barrier skincare.
Serums come as watery solutions, gels, light emulsions, oils and two-phase drops, in droppers, airless pumps and ampoule bottles; layered essences and ampoules sit on our Korean skincare manufacturing page. We also develop and make scalp and hair serums, haircare and body care.
Some private label serums are stock formulas that anyone can buy under their own name. Bespoke development gives your brand its own formula, data and claims. Your formula is yours, as our formula ownership commitment sets out, and R&D is a paid stage that can be included with an order of the right size.
Development runs in stages with our research and development team: your brief and target claims, a benchmark of the serums you admire, prototype rounds at the active levels your claims need, then stability, challenge and compatibility testing in the final pack before scale-up. Every prototype is built around three numbers that stay fixed from bench to production: the active level, the pH window and the shelf life the pack must protect.
Vitamin C, retinoids or acids: pH, penetration and pairing
Serum pH, penetration and compatibility
Three constraints decide what a serum can do. pH comes first: skin's surface is on average below pH 5 (Lambers and colleagues, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2006), an acid's exfoliating strength depends on its level and the product's pH together, and L-ascorbic acid needs a low pH to enter the skin. Penetration is second: molecules above about 500 daltons cross intact skin poorly (Bos and Meinardi, Experimental Dermatology, 2000), so hyaluronic acid and polyglutamic acid hydrate the surface. Compatibility is third: copper ions speed the breakdown of vitamin C, retinoids degrade in light and air, and a strong acid beside a retinoid in one product adds irritation, so we split those actives across separate steps.
The actives, form by form
| Active | Forms and science | What we watch, as of October 2026 |
|---|---|---|
| Vitamin C | In pig skin studies, L-ascorbic acid entered the skin only when formulated below pH 3.5, and three derivatives did not raise skin levels of it (Pinnell and colleagues, 2001). Adding ferulic acid to a solution of 15% L-ascorbic acid and 1% vitamin E improved the vitamins' chemical stability and roughly doubled the solution's protection of skin against simulated sunlight in laboratory tests (Lin and colleagues, 2005). | Oxidation, seen as browning and loss of assay. Derivative serums are more stable in water but need their own data. |
| Niacinamide | In a split-face, double-blind trial in 50 women aged 40 to 60, a moisturiser with 5% niacinamide improved the look of fine lines, spots, texture, red blotchiness and yellowing against the same moisturiser without it, and was well tolerated (Bissett and colleagues, 2004). | Stable and easy to pair: a backbone of tone and barrier formulas. |
| Retinol, retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate | Vitamin A forms for smoother-looking skin and fewer visible lines. | In the EU, capped at 0.3% retinol equivalent, or 0.05% in body lotions, with the warning "Contains Vitamin A. Consider your daily intake before use". Great Britain and the US set no limit. |
| Retinal (retinaldehyde) | The aldehyde form of vitamin A, one step closer to retinoic acid than retinol. | Outside the EU caps, so its level rests on the safety assessment. Cosmetics add to dietary vitamin A exposure (SCCS, 2022), so we carry the same warning. |
| Bakuchiol | In a randomised, double-blind trial in 44 people, bakuchiol 0.5% twice daily and retinol 0.5% daily both reduced wrinkle surface area and the look of pigmentation, with no statistical difference, and retinol users reported more scaling and stinging (Dhaliwal and colleagues, 2019). | One trial, so claims rest on your product's tests. Bakuchiol is not vitamin A, so the vitamin A limits don't apply. |
| AHAs (glycolic, lactic, mandelic) | Exfoliate the surface for smoother, brighter-looking skin. | EU expert position: glycolic acid up to 4% at pH 3.8 or above, lactic acid up to 2.5% at pH 5.0 or above (SCCNFP, 2004). US expert panel, as reported by FDA: 10% or less at pH 3.5 or above, with daily sun protection. |
| Salicylic acid (BHA) | Oil-soluble, so it suits pore care and oily-looking skin. | UK and EU limits of 2.0% in face and most other products and 3.0% in rinse-off hair products, with no use for children under 3 or in sprays that could reach the lungs. |
| PHAs (gluconolactone, lactobionic acid) | Larger molecules than glycolic acid, used for gentle exfoliation and hydration. | Claims rest on the product's own tests. |
| Polyglutamic acid | A polymer of glutamic acid made by fermentation; a humectant that forms a film on the skin, often paired with hyaluronic acid. | Far above 500 daltons, so it hydrates the surface; we test hydration claims on volunteers. |
Exfoliation and peeling serums
We formulate home-use exfoliating serums within these positions and set the level and pH for each market with the safety assessor; higher-strength peels belong in professional settings. AHAs also raise sun sensitivity, so FDA recommends a sun alert on AHA products (see FDA's page on alpha hydroxy acids), and we put sun protection directions on every AHA label, for every market.
Preservation and packaging
Water-based serums need a preservative system from the preservatives annex, within its limits, proven by challenge testing; anhydrous retinoid and vitamin C serums can be assessed as low microbiological risk. The pack is part of the formula: airless pumps and opaque or amber glass protect vitamin C and retinoids from air and light, and droppers suit stable actives. Our packaging development team matches pack to active.
Holding each serum's pH window, from compounding to fill
- Specify. We agree actives, grades and levels, the pH window, claims, pack and markets, and screen every ingredient against each market's annexes.
- Approve suppliers. Every material comes from a supplier approved before use and reviewed every year, with certificates of analysis checked on every lot.
- Compound. Water phases are hydrated and dispersed, anhydrous serums are blended with their antioxidants, and heat-sensitive actives go in as the batch cools. Vitamin C serums carry a chelator to bind trace metals and antioxidants such as ferulic acid and vitamin E. Oxidation-sensitive serums are made and filled under nitrogen with low headspace, and retinoids are handled under reduced light.
- Adjust and check. pH is adjusted into its window and checked on every batch, with appearance, colour, odour, viscosity and fill weight.
- Fill and label. Serums are filled into droppers, airless pumps or ampoule bottles, with dropper bulbs and pump seals chosen from compatibility data, and labels are verified on every batch.
- Test, retain and release. Every batch is tested by accredited partner laboratories (ISO/IEC 17025) as part of every order, including an assay of the label-claimed active; three retained samples per batch are kept for shelf life plus one year, and quality control releases every batch against its specification.
Why every serum's active is assayed through shelf life
Every serum has a cosmetic product safety report (CPSR) before it goes on sale in the UK or the EU, concluded by a qualified safety assessor who weighs each ingredient's exposure against its safety data. For acids, the assessor reviews level and pH together; for retinoids, total vitamin A exposure. We run the test programme with accredited partner laboratories:
- Stability in the final pack, accelerated and real-time, with temperature cycling and light exposure, tracking colour, odour, pH, viscosity and active content by chromatography, so the label claim holds to the end of shelf life.
- Compatibility between formula and pack: no leaching, swelling, stress cracking, weight loss or oxygen ingress.
- Challenge testing to ISO 11930 for every water-based serum; anhydrous serums can qualify as low risk under ISO 29621.
- Claims tests, arranged with specialist partners: dermatologist-supervised patch tests, hydration and elasticity readings, and imaging of lines and tone.
We make every serum in our Leicester facility. We are ISO 9001 certified by BSI, and the scope of our certificate, FS 822806, includes cosmetics. Our stability and shelf life testing page sets out the method.
With every serum, you receive the agreed specification, the ingredient list in INCI names, the active assay method and the stability data behind your shelf life, the CPSR and product information file built with your Responsible Person, and a certificate of analysis for every batch from our accredited partner laboratories.
Retinol caps, salicylic limits and MoCRA for serums
We formulate every serum for the UK, the EU and the US from the first brief. As of October 2026:
- Great Britain. A UK Responsible Person, a CPSR and notification through the SCPN service before sale. Salicylic acid carries the same limits as in the EU, and Great Britain has set no vitamin A limit.
- European Union and Northern Ireland. A Responsible Person in the EU, or in Northern Ireland for that market, a CPSR and notification through the CPNP. Retinol and its esters carry the caps and warning above, and products that miss them must leave the market from 1 May 2027. Products placed on the EU market after 31 July 2026 name around 80 fragrance allergens, and we write every label to that list.
- United States. Under MoCRA, manufacturers register their facilities, and the responsible person named on the label lists each product. Our FDA registration is a food facility registration for dietary supplements, so we register our Leicester facility under MoCRA as US serum programmes start.
Claims stay cosmetic and specific: "brighter-looking skin", "visibly smoother texture", "fewer visible fine lines", each backed by a test written into the plan before the first sample and meeting the UK and EU common criteria for cosmetic claims. Our skincare and cosmetic manufacturing hub sets out the wider rules. Start your project with your actives, claims and markets.
References: Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/996 on vitamin A, arbutin and other substances (2024); Commission Regulation (EU) 2021/850 amending the cosmetics annexes, salicylic acid (2021); SCCNFP, updated position paper on alpha hydroxy acids (2004); SCCS, revised opinion on vitamin A (2022); Pinnell and colleagues, Dermatologic Surgery (2001); Lin and colleagues, Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2005); Bissett and colleagues, International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2004); Dhaliwal and colleagues, British Journal of Dermatology (2019).
Where it can be sold
-
EU and Northern Ireland
Permitted with conditionsAs of October 2026, retinol and its esters are capped at 0.3% retinol equivalent, or 0.05% in body lotions, with a vitamin A warning on the label.
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Great Britain
PermittedAs of October 2026, Great Britain sets no specific limit for retinol or its esters in cosmetics.
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US
PermittedAs of October 2026, retinol is not on FDA's list of prohibited or restricted cosmetic ingredients.
Where this is going
To 2030
Flat to up: proven actives keep scaling as brands avoid chasing new molecules
To 2036
Flat: commoditised staples
What to watch
Commoditisation and the EU vitamin A limits on retinol
Questions brands ask
Can you make a private label vitamin C serum?
Yes. We make L-ascorbic acid serums at low pH, the condition under which it entered the skin in pig skin studies, and derivative serums that stay stable in water. We protect L-ascorbic acid with antioxidants such as ferulic acid and vitamin E, low-headspace filling under nitrogen, and airless or opaque packs, then track colour and active content through stability. Your formula is yours, with its specification and data, and R&D is a paid stage.
What are the retinol limits for serums?
As of October 2026, the EU caps retinol, retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate at 0.3% retinol equivalent in face serums and most products, and 0.05% in body lotions, with the warning "Contains Vitamin A. Consider your daily intake before use". Products that miss the caps must leave the EU market from 1 May 2027. Great Britain has set no limit, so we formulate to the EU caps for brands that sell in both.
Is retinal covered by the EU vitamin A limits?
No. As of October 2026, the EU caps cover retinol, retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate, not retinal, so its level rests on the safety assessment. The EU's scientific committee found that the most exposed 5% of consumers may already exceed the upper limit for vitamin A, and that cosmetics add to that exposure. We set retinal levels with the assessor and recommend the same vitamin A warning on the label.
How strong can an exfoliating serum be?
Strong enough to work, set against published safety positions. As of October 2026, the EU and Great Britain cap salicylic acid at 2.0% in face products. For glycolic and lactic acid, the EU's former scientific committee took a precautionary position of 4% at pH 3.8 or above and 2.5% at pH 5.0 or above, while FDA reports a US expert panel's conclusion of 10% or less at pH 3.5 or above with daily sun protection. Higher-strength peels belong in professional settings.
Is bakuchiol a real alternative to retinol?
It has one good trial behind it. In a randomised, double-blind study in 44 people, bakuchiol 0.5% twice daily and retinol 0.5% daily both reduced wrinkle surface area and the look of pigmentation, with no statistical difference, and retinol users reported more scaling and stinging. One trial is not a claim, so we test your finished serum. Bakuchiol is not vitamin A, so the EU vitamin A limits and warning don't apply.
What does polyglutamic acid add to a serum?
Surface hydration and a smooth, cushioned feel. Polyglutamic acid is a polymer of glutamic acid made by fermentation. Its molecules are far larger than the roughly 500 daltons that cross intact skin, so it works as a humectant film on the surface, often beside multi-weight hyaluronic acid. We back hydration claims with instrumental readings on volunteers, arranged with specialist partners, rather than with ingredient figures from supplier brochures.
Can you make active serums for the US market?
Yes. As of October 2026, MoCRA requires the manufacturing facility to be registered with FDA, and the responsible person named on the label lists each product, keeps safety records and reports serious adverse events. Our FDA registration is a food facility registration for dietary supplements, so we register our Leicester facility under MoCRA as US serum programmes start. FDA recommends a sun alert on AHA products, and drug claims make a serum a drug.
Start your project
Tell us what you want to make. Every project starts with a conversation about your product, your customers and your markets.